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সাজেক পর্ব ২

ভ্রমণ
PUBLISHED: September 12, 2020

২০১১-র গ্রীষ্ম। বহুদিন পর কলেজ জীবনের দুই জিগির দোস্ত মিশুক-মেহেদির সঙ্গে আবার দেখা। ঠিক করলাম সাজেক ভ্রমণের মাধ্যমে উদযাপন করব। শুনেছিলাম ভারতের সেভেন সিস্টারের অন্তর্গত দুই রাজ্য মিজোরাম এবং ত্রিপুরার সীমান্তের এই জনপদে না চাইলেই মেঘেরা এসে ধরা দেয়, তবে বর্ষা আর শরতে মেঘের দাপট বেশি। পল্লব ভাই ঘুরে গিয়েছিলেন, বললেন সুযোগ পেলে সাজেকের কংলাকের কারবারির বাড়িতে ঢু মারতে। কারবারির মেয়ের সঙ্গে ভাব হয়েছিল তাঁর। খাগড়াছড়ি যাওয়ার পথে হঠাৎ যখন বা দিকে পাহাড়শ্রেণীর ভেতর প্রবেশ করল বাস ভাবলাম বুঝি বা পার্বত্য চট্টগ্রামে ঢুকে পড়েছি! সামনে আঁকাবাকা পথে দুলতে-দুলতে একটা ট্রাক যাওয়ার দৃশ্য দেখে আঁতকে উঠে উপলব্ধি করলাম, আমাদের বাসটাও এভাবেই যাচ্ছে। দূরে নিচের রাস্তায় চলতে থাকা পিক আপটা যেন ম্যাচ বাক্স। এসময়ই টলতে টলতে এগিয়ে আসা টিকেট চেকার চমকে দিল আমাদের, বলল এই উঁচু পাহাড়গুলো পড়েছে সীতাকুন্ড-মিরসরাই রেঞ্জে। খাগড়াছড়ি পৌঁছার পর দাউদ ভাই সব ব্যবস্থা করলেন। চান্দের গাড়িতো ঠিক করলেনই, কলেজ পড়ুয়া স্থানীয় এক ছেলেকেও জুটিয়ে দিলেন সফরসঙ্গী হিসাবে। সাজেক তখন সাধারণ পর্যটকদের কাছে নেহায়েত অপরিচিত এক রাজ্য। কালেভদ্রে আর্মির অনুমতি সাপেক্ষে অতি উৎসাহী কেউ কেউ যায়। পথে ঝামেলা হয়নি। সেনা চেকপোস্টগুলোয় শুধু নাম-পরিচয় লিখতে হয়েছে। চান্দের গাড়িতে অনায়াসে ১২-১৪ জনের জায়গা হয়ে যায়, সেখানে আমরা ড্রাইভার-হেলপার সমেত ছয়জন। গাড়িতে ফাঁকা জায়গা বিস্তর, তাই সেনাদের অনুরোধে এক চেক পোস্ট থেকে আরেক চেক পোস্টে খাবরের বস্তাও পৌঁছে দিলাম। সত্যি বলতে এমন রাস্তায় ওটাই প্রথম যাত্রা। দূরের আকাশমুখী ফিতার মত জিনিসটা যে রাস্তা, আর একটু পরে ওটা পেরোতে হবে এটা বুঝতে পেরে গা কাটা দিচ্ছিল। যেখানটায় কাচালং ও মাচালং নদী এক হয়েছে তার ওপরের সেতুটার ওপর গাড়ি দাঁড় করিয়ে মুগ্ধ চোখে দেখছিলাম।রুইলুই পাড়ায় স্থানীয়দের বাড়ি-ঘর ছাড়া কিছুই চোখে পড়ে নি। একটা রিসোর্টও ছিল না। কখনো কখনো দু-চারজন পর্যটক রাত কাটায়, স্থানীয় পাংখোয়া বা লুসাইদের বাড়িতে। একটা সরু পথ ধরে কংলাক পাহাড়ের দিকে রওয়ানা দিলাম। গাড়ি থেকে নেমে পাহাড়ে ওঠার সময় গাছপালা পোড়ার কারণে সৃষ্টি নীল একটা ধোঁয়া ঘিরে ধরেছিল, মনে পড়ছে স্পষ্ট। গ্রীষ্মের দাবদাহে পাহাড় বেয়ে কংলাকে উঠে হাঁফাতে লাগলাম, সবুজের একটু ঘাটতি আছে, তবে দূরে মিজোরামের লুসাই পাহাড়, পাহাড়রাজ্যে এখানে সেখানে নীল ধোঁয়াদের বিস্তার, হালকা মেঘের জেঁকে বসার চেষ্টা দেখে শরীরটা জুড়িয়ে দিল। একটু পর পল্লব ভাইয়ের নির্দেশিত সেই কারবারির বাড়িতে গিয়ে শরবত জুটল। তাঁর বান্ধবীর মিজোরাম নিবাসী জামাইয়ের দর্শনও লাভ করি। ভাঙা ভাঙা বাংলায় গল্প করার চেষ্টা করলেন আমার সঙ্গে। কারবারির বাড়ির দেয়ালে ঝুলতে থাকা সম্বরের মাথাটা থেকে চোখ সরাতে পারছিলাম না। তখন কংলাকে বেশ কয়েক ঘর পাংখোয়া ছিল। শুনেছি এখন অনেক পাংখোয়াই পাহাড়ের আরো গভীরে সরে পড়েছে, ওরা লোকজনের ভীড়-বাট্টা কম পছন্দ করে কিনা!সাজেক থেকে যাচ্ছিলাম বাঘাইছড়ি, যার আরেক নাম মারিশ্যা। কিছুদূর এগুতে না এগুতেই খবর মিলল গোলমালের জের ধরে একটা গাড়ি পুড়েছে পথে। আমাদের চালক ভয় পেয়ে বাঘাইহাট থেকে বিকল্প পথ ধরল বাঘাইছড়ি যাওয়ার। ভয়ানক সে রাস্তা। এখনো মনে আছে, কয়েকবার ছিটকে গাড়ির ভেতরে পড়েছিলাম। মেহেদি তো পাজরে এমন ব্যাথা পেয়েছিল, পরের কয়েক বছর যন্ত্রনা এই সফরের কথা ভুলতে দেয়নি। এক চাকমা পরিবারকে তুলে নিয়েছিলাম গাড়িতে। ওদেরও সাহায্য হয়েছিল, আমাদেরও অচেনা পথের ধাঁধা কাটে অনেকটা। ভয় পাচ্ছিলাম, মূল রাস্তায় একটু পর পর আর্মি ক্যাম্প পড়ে, এখানে তো তাও নেই! বিপদ হলে? দুরু দুরু বুকে শেষমেষ অক্ষতদেহেই পৌঁছে যাই মারিশ্যা।

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