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নীলুফা আর তোফার সঙ্গে ঝরনা দেখা

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PUBLISHED: September 16, 2020
অটোরিকশা থেকে নামতেই এক দঙ্গল ছোট ছেলে-মেয়ে ঘিরে ধরল। বয়স্ক এক লোক বললেন, ‘এই এখন সিরিয়াল কার?’ সঙ্গে সঙ্গে একটা মেয়ে হাত উঁচু করল। তখন লোকটা বললেন, ‘ভেতরের পথে ১৫ মিনিট হাঁটলেই ঝরনায় পৌঁছে যাবেন। আপনারা তো চিনবেন না তাই ও পথ দেখিয়ে নিয়ে যাবে।’ সময়টা ২০১৬-র হেমন্ত। বান্দরবান এসেছি দুই দিন হলো। আজ রাতেই ঢাকা ফিরব। যাওয়ার আগে দেখার তালিকায় একটি ঝরনাও আছে। জায়গাটি আমরা যেখানে উঠেছি, মানে মেঘলা পর্যটন কেন্দ্র থেকে খুব একটা দূরে নয়। আমার সঙ্গে স্ত্রী পুনম আর আড়াই বছরের মেয়ে ওয়াফিকা।
ছোট্ট গাইডের সঙ্গে পথ চলা শুরু করলাম। মূল রাস্তা থেকে মাটির একটা পথ চলে গেছে ভেতরের দিকে। এর মধ্যেই সঙ্গের মেয়েটার নাম জানা হয়ে গেছে, নীলুফা। ক্লাস সিক্সে পড়ে। একটু এগোতেই আরেকটি মেয়ে আমাদের সঙ্গী হলো। জানতে পারলাম ওর নাম তোফা, পড়ে ক্লাস থ্রিতে। নীলুফা একটু শান্ত, আর তোফা চটপটে। ওদের কাছ থেকে জানতে পারলাম ঝরনা আসলে একটি নয়, দুটি। আগেরটা রুপালি আর পরেরটা রূপসী। বলল রুপালিতে যেতে মিনিট ১৫ লাগবে, সেখান থেকে রূপসী পাঁচ-সাত মিনিট। অভয় দিল—রাস্তা চমত্কার, বাচ্চা নিয়ে যেতেও সমস্যা হবে না। বেশির ভাগ কথা বলছিল তোফা, মাঝেমধ্যে নীলুফা। জানলাম এখন ওদের স্কুল বন্ধ। ছুটির দিনে পর্যটকদের ঝরনা দেখাতে নিয়ে যায়। খুশি হয়ে তারা যে টাকা দেয়, তা তারা দিয়ে দেয় মাকে। মাটির রাস্তাটা সমতল নয়, কখনো কখনো উঠছে, আবার নামছে। ওরা দেখলাম রূপসীর প্রশংসায় পঞ্চমুখ। বলল, ওটাই বেশি সুন্দর। তোফা একবারে পেশাদার গাইডের মতো বলল, ‘অন্যরা হলে ওইটার কথা আপনাদের বলতই না। একটা দেখিয়েই নিয়ে যেত। কিন্তু আমরা আপনাদের দুটিই দেখাব।’
কিছুটা এগোতে এক বিপত্তি। সামনেই বাঁশের এক সাঁকো। বেশ নড়বড়ে। দু-এক জায়গা ভেঙে গেছে। এতক্ষণ ওয়াফিকা ছিল পুনমের কোলে। এখন ওই সাঁকো পার হওয়াটাই পুনমের জন্য মুশকিল হয়ে দাঁড়ালো। অগত্যা মেয়ে আশ্রয় নিল আমার কোলে। ওকে নিয়ে বেশ সাবধানে সাঁকোটা পেরোতে লাগলাম। শেষ দিকে আবার কতটুকু জায়গায়, ধরার কিছু নেই। তবে কোনো অঘটন ছাড়াই ও পারে পৌঁছে গেলাম। পুনমও বেশ সময় লাগিয়ে পেরোল সাঁকোটা। তারপর আবার নীলুফা আর তোফার সঙ্গে পথ চলা। গাছপালায় ঢাকা একটা জায়গা পেরোতেই নামতে হলো পানিতে। দুই গাইডের দেখানো পথ ধরে চলায়, পানি হাঁটুর নিচেই থাকল। ‘ওই যে ঝরনার শব্দ, শুনছেন না!’ বলল তোফা। সত্যি ঝরনার পানি পড়ার আওয়াজ পাওয়া যাচ্ছে। বেশি দূর হাঁটতে হলো না। আবার ডাঙায় উঠে এলাম। এবার ঝরনাটা দেখতে পেলাম সামনে। ফুট চল্লিশেক উচ্চতা থেকে পড়ছে পানি। বর্ষা শেষ হলেও বৃষ্টি শেষ হয়নি। তাই বেশ ভালো পানি আছে। আমরা যে জায়গাটা দিয়ে ডাঙায় উঠেছি, সেখানে একটা দোকান আছে। বুট, মুড়ি এসব বিক্রি হচ্ছে। এমনকি ঝরনায় গোসল করার জন্য কাপড়ও ভাড়া পাওয়া যাচ্ছে। পুরুষদের লুঙ্গি আর মেয়েদের ম্যাক্সি। ভাড়া বেশি না, ১০ টাকা। ঝরনার চারপাশে বেশ কিছুটা জায়গা নিয়ে একটা ডোবার মতো তৈরি হয়েছে নেমে আসা জলের ধারায়। পানিতে নামলাম। ঠাণ্ডা শীতল পানি। ওয়াফিকাও নামল। পানি পেয়ে বেজায় খুশি। পা দিয়ে ছিটাচ্ছে। তবে ঝরনার সামনেটায় জলের গভীরতা যে বেশ তা বোঝাই যাচ্ছে। এ সময় আমাদের সঙ্গের মেয়ে দুটি দেখলাম ঝরনার দিকে তাকিয়ে কি যেন ইশারা করছে। ওদিকে তাকালাম। ছোট্ট একটি ছেলে ঝরনার পাহাড়টার মোটামুটি মাঝামাঝি উচ্চতায় পাথুরে একটা গর্তের মধ্য থেকে মুখ বের করে আছে। নীলুফা বলল, ‘ও ওপর থেকে একটু আগে লাফ দিছে, এখন আবার উঠে গেছে।’ তোফা চিত্কার দিয়ে বলল, ‘আবার লাফ দে।’ ছেলেটা সত্যি বের হয়ে এসে একটা পাথরের ওপর দাঁড়ালো। ওর শরীরে এসে লাগছে ঝরনার পানির ছিটা। হঠাত্ লাফ দিল সে নিচের পানিতে। তারপর জলে ভাসতে ভাসতে আমাদের দিকে তাকিয়ে হাসতে লাগল।

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