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রাম ঝুলা আর লছমন ঝুলা

ভ্রমণ
PUBLISHED: September 15, 2020

একটু পরপরই সেতু পেরোচ্ছে জিপগাড়িটা। সেতুর নিচের জল শুকিয়ে খটখটে, ছোট ছোট পাথরে ভর্তি গা। চলার পথে ডানে-বাঁয়ে পাহাড়। মাঝে মাঝে কড়া মোচড়। রীতিমতো রোমাঞ্চকর এক যাত্রা। একসময় আমাদের অভিজ্ঞ চালক ইরফান চাচা মূল পথ ছেড়ে জঙ্গলের ভেতরের একটা রাস্তা ধরলেন। দুই পাশে শালবন। একটু পরপরই বোর্ডে বুনো হাতি সম্পর্কে সতর্কবাণী। ভাবলাম, আহ্! হাতির একটা পাল, কি নিদেনপক্ষে একটি-দুটি হাতির দেখা কী পাব না! আসলে দেরাদুনে এসেও সঙ্গী-সাথিদের কথা ভেবে রাজাজি টাইগার রিজার্ভে যাওয়ার পরিকল্পনা বাদ দিয়েছি। এখন গাড়িচালক ইরফান চাচার দৌলতে অন্তত কিছুটা জঙ্গল দর্শন হলো। এবার বন্য প্রাণী দর্শন হলেই কেল্লাফতে!

আর কথা বাড়ানোর আগে কোথায় যাচ্ছি, কারা যাচ্ছি একটু বলে রাখি। ভ্রমণসঙ্গী বেশ কয়েকজন। আব্বু-আম্মু, শাশুড়ি, খালা শাশুড়ি, স্ত্রী পুনম, চার বছরের মেয়ে ওয়াফিকা, চাচি আর দুই চাচাতো ভাই-বোন সামিন, সামারা। এত বড় দল নিয়ে ভ্রমণে বের হলে সুবিধা যেমন, তেমনি কিছু ঝক্কিও আছে। সবার কথা ভেবে সাজাতে হয় প্ল্যান। শুরুতে কলকাতা থেকে প্লেনে দিল্লিতে ট্রানজিট নিয়ে এসেছি দেরাদুনে। পাহাড়ি শহর দেরাদুনে আসা আমার পছন্দে। এখান থেকে যাব দিল্লি-আগ্রা, এটা অন্যদের পছন্দ। গতকাল দেরাদুন পৌঁছে আজ চলেছি ঋষিকেশের পথে। দেখব রাম ঝুলা আর লছমন ঝুলা।

জঙ্গল পেরিয়ে এক জায়গায় গাড়ি থামিয়ে আলু-পরোটা আর ডিম-পরোটা (পরোটার ভেতর ডিম আর আলুর পুর দেওয়া) দিয়ে নাশতা সারা হলো। অবশ্য নাশতাটা দ্রুততার সঙ্গে প্রস্তুত হওয়ার জন্য সব কাজের কাজি ইরফান চাচার ধন্যবাদ প্রাপ্য। হোটেলের হেঁশেলে ঢুকে বাবুর্চিদের সঙ্গে হাত লাগিয়েছিলেন তিনিও। এমনকি চা-টাও তাঁর বানানো। নাশতা শেষে আবার পথচলা। প্রথমে রাম ঝুলা। তবে আমরা এখানে না থেমে চলে যাব লছমন ঝুলা। লছমন ঝুলাটা পুরনো, এর কথা প্রথম জানতে পারি ফেলুদার ‘বাদশাহী আংটি’ পড়ে। তখন থেকেই ইচ্ছা ছিল জায়গাটা দেখব। ঋষিকেশ হিন্দু ধর্মাবলম্বীদের কাছে খুব পবিত্র জায়গা। এখানে বেশ কিছু মন্দির ও আশ্রম আছে। তবে আমাকে টানছে ওই রাম ঝুলা আর লছমন ঝুলা।

একসময় গাড়ি দাঁড় করালেন ইরফান চাচা। বললেন, বাকি পথটা হেঁটে যেতে হবে। পদব্রজে সঙ্গী হলেন তিনিও। দুই পাশে সার সার দোকান। এখানে পর্যটকদের জন্য নানা কিসিমের জিনিসের পসরা নিয়ে বসেছেন দোকানীরা। হিন্দু ধর্মাবলম্বীদের আগ্রহ জাগানোর মতো ধর্মীয় বিভিন্ন জিনিস যেমন আছে, তেমনি আছে পর্যটকদের জন্য নানা ধরনের শোপিস। দুই ইউরোপীয় নারীকে দেখলাম কপালে সিঁদুর মেখে, শাড়ি পরে বাকবাকুম করছে আনন্দে। এক হনুমানভক্ত আবার হনুমান সেজে কাঁধে একটা গদা ঝুলিয়ে দাঁড়িয়ে আছে রাস্তায়। একসময় চলে এলাম লছমন ঝুলার সামনে। আসলেই দেখার মতো, গঙ্গার ওপরের এই ঝুলন্ত সেতুটা। রাম ঝুলার দুই কিলোমিটার উজানে এই সেতু। আমার উইকি জ্ঞান বলছে, ১৯২৯ সালে নির্মাণ শেষ হয় এর। বলা হয়, এখন যে জায়গায় সেতুটি, সেখান দিয়ে পাটের দড়ি দিয়ে গঙ্গা পেরোন রামের ভাই লক্ষ্মণ। সেতুটির দৈর্ঘ্য ৪৫০ ফুট। নদীর ওপাশে পাহাড়, পাহাড়ের গায়ে বাড়িঘরে চোখ আটকে গেল। এত সুন্দর! দূর পাহাড়ের গায়ে রাস্তা দিয়ে চলা গাড়িগুলোকে খেলনার মতো লাগছে। চারদিকে বানরের ছড়াছড়ি। ভাবসাব দেখে মনে হচ্ছে, এরাই এখানে রাজা। সদা শংকা, কখন আবার লাফিয়ে পড়ে ঘাড়ের ওপর। দাঁত খিঁচাচ্ছে আমাদের দিকে তাকিয়ে। এ সময়ই ঘটল অঘটন। আব্বুর হাতে একটা প্যাকেটে ওয়াফিকার জন্য পাউরুটি, কমলা আর টিস্যু ছিল। হঠাত্ এক বানর বেমক্কা টানে ওটা নিয়ে লাফিয়ে উঠে গেল সেতুর একপাশের রেলিংয়ে। ওয়াফিকা হায় হায় করে উঠল, ‘আমার পাউরুটি-কমলা, বাপি! এখন কী হবে!’ শেষ পর্যন্ত কয়েকজন পর্যটকের দৌড়াদৌড়িতে প্যাকেটটি আমাদের সামনে ছুড়ে দিল বানর। তবে ততক্ষণে পাউরুটি লোপাট। একটু পরপরই মোটরসাইকেল আরোহীরা পেরোচ্ছে সেতু। তাদের কারণে হাঁটাই মুশকিল। আসলে ঝুলন্ত সেতুটির ওপাশে মন্দির, আশ্রমসহ বিভিন্ন জনবসতিতে যাতায়াতের জন্য মোটরসাইকেল কাজের বাহন। আমরা সেতু পেরিয়ে ওপারে গেলাম। সময় কম, তাড়াতাড়ি রাম ঝুলার দিকে যেতে হবে। তাই মন্দির দর্শন হলো না। গাড়ি থেকে নেমে প্রথমে হেঁটে তারপর সিঁড়ি বেয়ে কিছুদূর নেমে রাম ঝুলায় পৌঁছতেই থ হয়ে গেলাম। এটা লছমন ঝুলার চেয়ে বড়, আরো সুন্দর। উইকি বলছে, এটা তৈরি হয় ১৯৮৬ সালে, দৈর্ঘ্য ৭৫০ ফুট। নিচে গঙ্গাটিকে লাগছে দুর্দান্ত। নদীর বুকে র্যাফটিং করছে কয়েকটি দল। মেয়েদের একটি দলও আছে। তাদের দেখে ওয়াফিকা আবদার জুড়ে দিল, সে-ও নৌকা বাইবে। অনেক বুঝিয়ে-শুনিয়ে তবে শান্ত করা গেল। এখানেও সেতু দিয়ে মোটরসাইকেল পারাপার হচ্ছে। ওগুলো এড়িয়ে ঝুলন্ত সেতুতে হেলতে-দুলতে হেঁটে ওপারে পৌঁছলাম। সেখান দিয়ে নিচে নামার জায়গা আছে। কেউ কেউ দেখলাম গোসল করছে। লছমন ঝুলার মতো এখানেও মন্দিরে যাওয়া হলো না। দুপুর যে গড়িয়ে গেল, দেরাদুনে আরো দুটি স্পট দেখার বাকি আজ, সহস্র ধারা আর রবারস কেভ।

ও দুটিতে যাওয়া হলো। বিস্তারিত বর্ণনা দেব না। তবে সহস্র ধারায় পৌঁছার আগে যে সরু পথটা পেলাম, সেটা এককথায় অসাধারণ। পথের দুই পাশে সুন্দর সুন্দর বাড়ি আর প্রবল বেগে বয়ে চলা খুদে একটা পাহাড়ি ছড়া দেখে চোখ জুড়াল। সহস্র ধারায় মিলল ভারি সুন্দর একটা পাহাড়ি ঝরনা, আছে কেবল্ কারও। ছোট-বড় পাথরের মধ্য দিয়ে বয়ে চলেছে ঝরনাটি। এখানেই বিকেল করে দুপুরের খাবার খেলাম। তারপর রবারস কেভ। বেশ গভীর এক গুহা। হাঁটুপানি মাড়িয়ে যেতে হয়। একসময় নাকি জায়গাটা লুটেরাদের আড্ডাখানা ছিল, তাই এমন নামকরণ। তবে আমরা যখন পৌঁছলাম, ততক্ষণে আঁধার ঘনাচ্ছে। তারপর আবার জলপথে হেঁটে কিছুদূর গিয়েই একটা সাপ দেখে দলের অতি সাহসী সদস্যরাও আর আগে বাড়তে রাজি হলো না। তাই সেদিনের মতো ঘোরাঘুরিতে ইতি টেনে চললাম হোটেলের পথে।

কিভাবে যাবেন

ঢাকা থেকে দেরাদুন সরাসরি ফ্লাইট নেই। দিল্লি গিয়ে সেখান থেকে যেতে পারেন। আবার কলকাতা গিয়ে দিল্লিতে ট্রানজিট নিয়েও দেরাদুন যাওয়া যায়। দিল্লি থেকে ট্রেনেও দেরাদুন এবং ঋষিকেশ যাওয়া যায়। দেরাদুনে মোটামুটি মানের হোটেলে ডাবল বেডের রুম পেয়ে যাবেন এক হাজার রুপিতে। আমরা সারা দিনের জন্য ৯ সিটের একটা জিপ ভাড়া নিয়েছিলাম চার হাজার রুপিতে।

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