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পাহাড়ের দেশে নদীর দেশে

ভ্রমণ
PUBLISHED: September 12, 2020

পারো থেকে পুনাখা চলেছি আমরা। ওয়াফিকার মন ভার। আগের দিন আমাদের গাইড আর চালক হিসেবে ছিলেন নিমা নামের যে ভুটানি তরুণী, তাঁর বদলে আজ যাচ্ছেন তাঁর ভাই নেডো। নিমার সঙ্গে দারুণ ভাব হয়েছিল ওয়াফিকার। গাড়ি থামিয়ে একটা চকোলেট কিনে দিয়ে ভাব করার চেষ্টা করলেন নেডো। আবার গাড়ি ছুটল। সকালের রোদের কারণে দারুণ উপভোগ্য ভুটানের ঠাণ্ডা আবহাওয়া। নেডো অন্য ভুটানি চালকদের মতোই পাহাড়ি পথে গাড়ি চালাচ্ছেন সতর্কতার সঙ্গে। যেখানে বাংলাদেশের সাজেক, নীলগিরি এমনকি ভারতের দার্জিলিংয়েও চালকদের দেখেছি পাগলের মতো গাড়ি ছুটাতে। দুই পাশের পাহাড়গুলো ভারি সুন্দর। তাতে সাইপ্রাসসহ হরেক গাছ-গাছালির মেলা। কখনো চোখে পড়ছে আপেল বাগান। সবে আপেল তোলা হয়েছে এখানকার গাছগুলো থেকে। পুনাখা যাওয়ার পথে পড়ে দচুলা পাস। যাত্রাবিরতি টানব সেখানে। ওপরে উঠছি তো উঠছিই, থামলাম ৩১০০ মিটারে। দচুলা পাসে চলে এসেছি। নিচে মেঘের ছিটেফোঁটা না থাকলেও দচুলার আকাশ ঢেকে আছে মেঘে। এখান থেকে হিমালয়ের উঁচু উঁচু বরফঢাকা চূড়াগুলোকে দেখা যায় মেঘ না থাকলে। এদের মধ্যে আছে ভুটানের সর্বোচ্চ শৃঙ্গ মাউন্ট মাসানগাংও। তবে একেবারে বঞ্চিত হলাম না, মেঘের ফাঁক গলে দু-একটা তুষার ধবল চূড়া ধরা দিল আমাদের চোখে। স্ত্রী পুনম ঝটপট ছবি তুলল কয়েকটা। চলে এলাম দচুলা পাসের মূল আকর্ষণ স্তুপাগুলোর সামনে। সাদা-লালে মেশানো এখানকার এক শ আটটি স্তুপা দেখে চোখ জুড়াল। মূলত বৌদ্ধভিক্ষুদের ধ্যানের জায়গা স্তুপা। কিছুদিন আগে এক ভারতীয় পর্যটক মই দিয়ে এ রকম একটা স্তুপার ওপরে চড়ে বিতর্কের জন্ম দিয়েছিলেন। এই স্তুপাগুলো বানানো হয় কুইন মাদার আসি দরজি ওয়াংমো ওয়ানচুকের নির্দেশে। একটা গুম্ফাও আছে এখানে।

হাঁটতে হাঁটতে অপর এক বাংলাদেশি পর্যটক পবিরারের সঙ্গে দেখা। আমাদের সঙ্গে একই বিমানে এসেছেন তাঁরা। তাঁদের কয়েকটা ছবি তুলে দিল পুনম। আমাদেরগুলা তুললেন নাডো। রোদ-ঠাণ্ডা গায়ে মাখতে মাখতে কিছুটা সময় হাঁটলাম আমরা স্তুপাগুলোর মাঝের পথ ধরে। এই জায়গাটা পড়েছে ভুটানের জাতীয় উদ্ভিদ উদ্যানের সীমানায়।

আবার পুনাখার উদ্দেশে যাত্রা। জাতি হিসেবে ভুটানিরা যে খুব সভ্য, তার প্রমাণ পেলাম একটু পরই। একটা গাড়ি পাহাড়ি পথে চলতে চলতে হঠাত্ বাম পাশে খাদের দিকে পড়ে যায়। ভাগ্য ভালো বেশি নিচে পড়েনি। একটার পর একটা পর্যটকবোঝাই কার, জিপ, মিনিবাস দাঁড়িয়ে পড়তে লাগল। বেশ কয়েকজন নেমে পড়লেন নিচে উদ্ধারকাজে। পুলিশের গাড়িও যেন কোথা থেকে হাজির হয়ে গিয়েছে। কয়েকজন পর্যটক ছবি তুলতে গেলেই আমাদের গাইড নেডো ছবি না তুলতে অনুরোধ করলেন। উদ্ধারের পর দেখা গেল মারাত্মক আঘাত পাননি কেউ।

পুনাখা যাওয়ার পথটা খুব সুন্দর। ডান পাশে গা ঘেঁষেই পাহাড়। বামে দূরে পাহাড়ের গায়ে হঠাত্ ভুটানি স্থাপত্যরীতিতে তৈরি বাড়িঘর। কিছুক্ষণ পর বেশ উঁচুতে কয়েকটা স্থাপনা দেখিয়ে নেডো জানালেন, ওটা একটা নানারি। নারী ভিক্ষুরা ওখানে প্রশিক্ষণ নেন, ধ্যান করেন। একসময় আমরা চলে এলাম পুনাখার সীমানায়। ভেতরের একটা রাস্তা ধরে এগোতেই ডান পাশে আশ্চর্য এক নদী। পাথরের ওপর দিয়ে ঝির ঝির করে বয়ে চলেছে। ওপরে চমত্কার এক সেতু। দূরে একসময় দেখা দিল পুনাখা জং। একই সঙ্গে দুর্গ আর ধর্মীয় কাঠামো বলতে পারেন এই জংকে। পুনাখা জং তৈরি হয়েছে সেই ১৬৩৭-৩৮ সালে। এখন পুনাখা জেলার প্রশাসনিক সদর দপ্তর। ভুটানি স্থাপত্যরীতিতে তৈরি দালানটি দেখে চোখ জুড়িয়ে গেল। পুনাখা জংয়ের সীমানায় ঢুকতে হয় নদীর ওপর একটা সেতু পেরিয়ে। পুনাখা উপত্যকার দুই নদীর মাঝখানে জংটি। পো চু হলো পুরুষ নদী, আর মো চু স্ত্রী নদী। কাঠের ব্রিজের ওপর থেকে নিচে নদীর স্বচ্ছ জলে মাছ দেখা যাচ্ছে। ওয়াফিকা মহানন্দে মাছ দেখল। তারপর আমরা জংয়ের সীমানা পেরিয়ে রওনা দিলাম ঝুলন্ত সেতুর দিকে। পাহাড়ের পাশ দিয়ে চলে গেছে মেঠোপথ। শীতের হালকা রোদ গায়ে মেখে হাঁটতে ভালো লাগছিল। একসময় চলে এলাম পুনাখার ঝুলন্ত সেতুর সামনে। ইউটিউবে দেখে ভক্ত হয়ে গিয়েছিলাম আগেই। এবার সামনে থেকে দেখে একেবারে থ। ৫০০ ফুটের বেশি লম্বা সেতুটা সাং চু নদীর ওপর। দুই পাশে সিমেন্টের ব্লকের মাঝখানে শক্ত তার দিয়ে তৈরি। সেতুর গায়ে বর্ণিল সব পতাকা শোভা পাচ্ছে। ওপরে উঠে পড়লাম আমরা। হেলে-দুলে হাঁটতে লাগলাম। ঝুলন্ত সেতু থেকে নিচের নদীটা ধরা দিল আরো মোহনীয় চেহারায়। র্যাফটিং করতে দেখলাম কাউকে কাউকে। ওপাশে পাহাড়, সমতলে ধানক্ষেত সব কিছুই দারুণ লাগল। এই সেতুর ওপর দিয়ে মানুষ তো বটেই; বিভিন্ন গবাদিপশুও চলাচল করে। সেতুর ওপাশে নামতেই একটা প্রেয়ার হুইল পেয়ে ঘুরাল মা-মেয়ে। তার পরই ওয়াফিকা এক বাড়ির সামনে বিড়ালের সঙ্গে দুষ্টুমি জুড়ে দিল। আমরা বাড়িটাকে পাশ কাটিয়ে একটা ধানক্ষেতের সামনে চলে এসেছি, এমন সময় ওয়াফিকা চিত্কার করতে করতে এসে বলল, ‘বাপি, বিড়ালটা আমাকে খামচি দিয়েছিল। তবে কিচ্ছু হয়নি দেখো।’ তাড়াতাড়ি পরীক্ষা করে দেখলাম, ঠিকই। মোটা জামা পেরিয়ে শরীরে লাগেনি নখের আঁচড়। নেডো আশ্বস্ত করলেন, এখানকার বিড়াল-কুকুর সব ভ্যাকসিনেশন করা।

ঝুলন্ত সেতু দিয়ে ফিরে এসে যেখানে খেতে গেলাম, সে রেস্তোরাঁটাও অসাধারণ। প্রচুর বিদেশিও খেতে এসেছেন। কাচের জানালা দিয়ে তাকাতেই চোখ জুড়িয়ে গেল পুনাখা উপত্যকা, ধানক্ষেত আর পাহাড়ের আশ্চর্য মিতালি দেখে। ওগুলো দেখতে দেখতে ডিম, মাশরুমের তরকারি আর ডাল দিয়ে খেলাম তারিয়ে তারিয়ে। ওয়াফিকার আবদারে আইসক্রিমও চলল। মালিকান মহিলা অতিশয় সদাসয়। আমার চেহারা তার বোন-জামাইয়ের মতো হওয়ায় ডিসকাউন্টও দিলেন। বেশ কয়েকজন ইউরোপীয় পর্যটক দেখলাম রেস্তোরাঁ থেকে বেরিয়ে ধানক্ষেতের মাঝখানের আইল দিয়ে হাঁটছেন। আমরা গেলাম আমাদের হোটেলে, কিনমালি। হোটেলটা দেখেই মুগ্ধ। বিশাল রুম, বাথরুম। তবে থ হয়ে গেলাম ব্যালকনিটায় এসে। নিচেই নদী। নদীর পরে ধানক্ষেত, পাহাড়। পাহাড়ের গায়ে শহর। এ যেন অন্য পৃথিবীর দৃশ্য!

পুনাখা থেকে আমরা এসেছিলাম পারোতে। পারোতে পর্যটকদের সবচেয়ে বেশি টানে টাইগার নেস্ট বা পারো টেকটসাং। পাহাড়ের গায়ে ঝুলে আছে মনাস্টারি বা গুম্ফাটা। ১৬৯২ সালে প্রথম তৈরি হয় এটি। বলা হয় গুরু রিনপোচ একটা বাঘিনীর পিঠে চড়ে বৌদ্ধ ধর্ম বিস্তারের জন্য তিব্বত থেকে এখানে আসেন। তাই এমন নামকরণ। তবে টাইগার নেস্টে উঠতে হয় ঘোরানো-পেঁচানো অনেকটা পথ পেরিয়ে। অনেকেই দেখলাম ঘোড়ার পিঠে সওয়ার হয়ে উঠছেন। আমরা হেঁটেই উঠছিলাম। বিভিন্ন দেশের মানুষের সঙ্গে দেখা হচ্ছিল। তবে ওয়াফিকাকে নিয়ে এত ওপরে ওঠা সম্ভব নয়। তা ছাড়া অন্য একটা পরিকল্পনা করেছিলাম ততক্ষণে। ঘণ্টাখানেক চড়াই বাওয়ার পর নেমে এসে রওনা দিলাম চেলালা পাসের উদ্দেশে। গাড়িতে করে যাওয়া যায় ভুটানের এমন সবচেয়ে উঁচু জায়গা চেলালা পাস। উচ্চতা তিন হাজার ৯৮৮ মিটার। পাহাড়ি আঁকাবাঁকা রাস্তা দিয়ে উঠতে হলেও নেডো এত সতর্কতার সঙ্গে গাড়ি চালালেন যে ওয়াফিকাও খুব একটা ভয় পেল না। উচ্চতা বাড়ার সঙ্গে সঙ্গে গাছপালায় বৈচিত্র্য আসছিল। চেলালায় পৌঁছে গাড়ি থেকে যখন নামলাম ঠাণ্ডায় জমে যাওয়ার জোগাড়। তাপমাত্রা দুই ডিগ্রি। ওয়াফিকা শীতে কাঁপছে, চিত্কার করছে। তাই বেশিক্ষণ থাকা সম্ভব হলো না। তবে এর মাঝে মেঘের ফাঁক গলে তুষারঢাকা হিমালয় পর্বতমালা, নিচে এক পাশে পারো ভ্যালি এবং আরেক পাশে হাভ্যালি ঠিকই দেখে নিলাম। তারপর গরম গরম পাকোড়া, আলুর চপ আর বেসনে চুবানো মরিচ নিয়ে চটজলদি ঢুকে পড়লাম গাড়ির ভেতরের হিটারের উষ্ণতায়।

ভুটান গেলে আরো দেখবেন থিম্পুর বুদ্ধা পয়েন্ট, পারো মিউজিয়াম, পারো জংসহ আরো অনেক কিছু। বেশির ভাগ সময় পাশে পাবেন কোনো না কোনো পাহাড়ি নদী। এ সব কিছুই পশ্চিম ভুটানে। বাংলাদেশ-ভারতের পর্যটকরা এ অংশটাই চেনে বেশি। তবে ভুটানের অন্য অংশগুলোও কম সুন্দর নয়।

কিভাবে যাবেন

ভুটানে আপনাকে অবশ্যই এজেন্সির মাধ্যমে যেতে হবে। বাংলাদেশের এজেন্সি আপনাকে পাঠাবে ভুটানি কোনো এজেন্সির মাধ্যমে। বাংলাদেশে অনেক এজেন্সিই ভুটানে পর্যটক পাঠাচ্ছে। বাই রোডে গেলে খরচ কম পড়বে। তবে সে ক্ষেত্রে ভারত থেকে পোর্ট এন্ট্রি ভিসা নিতে হবে। বিমানে ঢাকা থেকে কেবল দ্রুকএয়ারে যাওয়া যায়। ভুটান বিমানবন্দরেই সেখানকার ভিসা দিয়ে দেবে। এমনকি কোনো ফরমও পূরণ করতে হবে না।

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